Cerro Campanario photo day

Hello from Bariloche!  Donna have been here for about a week and a half now and we have a lot to write about, but just haven’t gotten around to a creating a detailed post about our Spanish school, the homestay and the beautiful city of Bariloche that we’ve been exploring.  However, in order to not leave everyone hanging, I am putting up this quick photo-post of our day today — Tuesday, August 12.

A brief rundown of the day is as follows.  My Spanish lesson ended an hour earlier than Donna’s since I am the only intermediate student in the school and therefore they are 1-on-1, so I walked around town for about half an hour and took a few pics of the Civic Center area and Lake Nahuel Huapi.  Once Donna was released we had lunch at a restaurant with a gorgeous view of the lake.  Then we caught a collectivo over to  Cerro Campanario, which is a small mountain (more of a hill, really, by the standards of Patagonia) with a stunning view of the many “finger lakes” that extend in and around the area.  We hiked up to see this spot that is revered to be one of the 5 best vistas in the world. I think the below pictures do that at least a little bit of justice!

After that we headed back to Bariloche and eventually back to la casa de Mara, where we’ve been staying since we arrived two Sundays ago.  More to come…

CLICK ON THE BELOW PHOTOS TO BRING UP A SLIDESHOW GALLERY WITH BIGGER VERSIONS!

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Buenos Aires Part 1

 

Buenos Aires enjoys its long afternoon breaks over coffee and good company

After a long journey from San Francisco to Argentina, Brandon and I were very excited to have arrived in Buenos Aires on July 31st to begin our travels! The moment we landed, we booked an airbnb in the Palermo district of Buenos Aires where we dropped our bags and immediately crashed for 12 hours. Sleep had never felt so good.

Once we were well rested, it was time to tour the city and enjoy traditional Argentinian meals. Of course, before we could do anything, we needed to exchange USD for pesos. Heeding advice from our friend, Grant, who recently planned to visit Argentina and had learned the ropes while in Chile, we brought with us crisp, sequential $100 bills to exchange for pesos. Because of the capital controls in place in Argentina and the government’s control of the exchange rate, we learned we could find a better rate in the “black market” for pesos in the city.  However, first we had to use Brandon’s debit card to get only a small amount pesos from an ATM at the airport so we could catch a cab into the city.  The exchange rate at the ATM was a paltry 8 pesos per $1.  We quickly learned that Argentina is desperate for USDs as its own currency continues to lose value (nearly) by day, and because the Argentinian government makes it incredibly difficult for the Argentine’s to retrieve USD from their banks. Not to mention, Argentina was in the midst of a default against the US, which literally happened the day we arrived! This meant that in the black market, we were able to achieve a more favorable exchange rate of 12 pesos to 1 USD. In reality, Argentinians consider this so-called “blue rate” the true exchange rate.

With pesos in hand, we first toured around the Palermo District and had lunch near our place. Wow is the food good in Buenos Aires – from vegetarian dishes to steak and chorizo options, you cannot go wrong in this city. After lunch, we walked towards the downtown area of BA and came upon city bikes, which we learned were free for both the locals and for tourists. By simply bringing a copy of our passports to any city bike rental station, we were able to use the bikes for an hour at a time. We took advantage, riding around what is considered their Central Park, taking in the city around us.

That night, we met up with Josh Kazdin’s cousin, Agustin, who is very plugged into the Buenos Aires scene. Agustin brought us to the fun, trendy Las Cañitas area to have drinks at 2am. There he gave us the download on BA living, sharing the traditional nightly schedule to prepare us for the following evening:

8pm-10pm: nap
11pm-1am: dinner
1am-3am: bar,
3am-6am: disco-tech

This was a typical night in Buenos Aires?? Even my years in NYC just after graduation didn’t yield nights past 4am! My blood sugar levels fell just listening to his proposed schedule for Saturday night, but we followed his expert suggestions, and it turns out that Agustin was spot on. Brandon and I kicked off our night at Don Julio’s Argentinian steakhouse at 11pm, following an awesome recommendation from Todd Evans.  Then we meet up with Agustin for a drink at 1am. Finally at 2:30am we found ourselves in front of the first disco-tech, The Rose Bar. The dance floor was empty inside. Augustin explained that most people won’t start showing up until after 3am… and again, he was right. We switched to another disco-tech, Keki, which was going CRAZY at 4am as if the party had just begun! We had a great time thanks to Agustin who showed us the best of the Argentinian nightlife.

At Keki's in Buenos Aires with Agustin, our gracious host to the Argentinian nightlife

At Keki’s in Buenos Aires with Agustin, our gracious host to the Argentinian nightlife

On Sunday morning we slept in and recovered from the previous late night.  We would’ve slept in later than 11am for sure, but we had to check out of our room since that afternoon we had to catch a plane to Bariloche.  We spent the early part of the afternoon at a cafe and having lunch and then we caught a taxi to the airport and caught our plane to Patagonia…

 

 

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Lessons Learned in Traveling Internationally

Donna and I didn’t initially plan on more than a layover in Buenos Aires on our way to Bariloche to begin our travels, but sometimes you just gotta go with the flow and this time the flow brought us directly to Argentina.  We knew that we needed to be in Bariloche, Argentina, by August 4th to begin our Spanish language school, so originally we decided that we’d head to Rio de Janeiro for about 4 days of R&R in a warm climate with white sand beaches before catching a flight on August 3rd through Buenos Aires to Bariloche.  The allure of seeing Brazil, even if only for a long weekend, was too much to resist!  With this in mind, we flew on Tuesday, July 29th, to Houston, Texas.

 

Why Houston?  Well, it all has to do with the great perk that Donna and I get to enjoy courtesy of Donna’s father.  Harold works for United Airlines and therefore is able to confer on Donna and myself the ability to fly United on “stand-by”, which means that if the plane is not full, then we can get on for usually about ⅓ the price. ( thanks Harold!!! )  Thusly, on Wednesday Donna and I leave our cheap motel and drive to the Woodlands to have lunch with Donna’s uncle James. It is my first time meeting James and I come away with the clear impression that James is one “cool Uncle,” just like my own Uncle, Terry.  At the end of our meeting, James reminds me to “take care of the special cargo” and I assure him that of course my number one priority is to make sure Donna stays safe!  Then Donna and I spend the remainder of the day planning our stay in Brazil at an air conditioned mall where we find relief from the hot and humid Houston weather.  The planning includes myself eagerly booking an AirBnB in the trendy, beachside Leglon district of Rio, where I learn from our good friend, Dan Landers, that we can walk to the beach in minutes and I can surf.  I also purchase the flight from Rio to Bariloche that we’d need that Sunday in order to get to our more permanent destination.  Once the time comes, we take the rental car back to George Bush Sr. International and attempt to check into our flight to Rio…

 

And that is when we learn one very important lesson: always check a country’s visa regulations a few weeks before attempting to catch a flight to a new country!  As usual we are running tight on time, but we made it with all of our luggage to the counter with just over an hour to spare before takeoff. We attempt to check in.  I scan my passport and then a box pops up on the check-in screen saying “visa required: show attendant.”  “What visa?”, I ask the attendant.  “Oh, you don’t have a visa,” she replies, “well you need a visa to go to Brasil… I don’t think you’ll be going today!”  Wow.  Big lesson learned!  I realize now that as an American citizen I enjoy a luxury that is not the norm for most countries, which is the ability to obtain a visa in most countries upon entry.  I have gotten an “official” visa before a trip once before, but this was only because I went to Indonesia a few years back with the intention of staying for more than a month.  Other than that, for all of the dozen or more countries I’ve been to, I’ve just gingerly showed up passport in hand, sometimes paid a nominal fee, and been granted access with a stamp or occasionally a nice visa-looking sticker in my passport.  Brazil, however, has a reciprocity policy that it will require an official visa for citizens of any country that requires an official visa for Brazilian citizens: hence because the United States requires a visa for Brazilians to enter the US, Donna and I would need official visas to go to Rio and obviously we did not have them.  There is no way to get these visas rushed and normally you’d want to go through the process at least 2 weeks before a trip, so we were pretty much out of luck.  And so we quickly developed a plan B…

 

Fortunately for us at the same time that the Rio flight left there was another flight departing for Buenos Aires.  Since we were flying standby it wasn’t 100% guaranteed that we’d get on, but the awesomely helpful United attendant thought that we’d have a chance, so she checked our bags into that flight and printed us some tickets.  This attendant was so awesome that she also allowed us to use their back-room computer to pay the $160 “reciprocity fee” that Argentina requires all citizens of the US, Australia and Canada to pay in order to enter Argentina.  The fee does not go towards the cost of a visa since US citizens don’t need a visa to enter Argentina, but is levied because the US charges Argentinians $160 for a visa.  I am starting to get it now… here in South America, countries like to be treated equitably as those from the US!  Anyway, after paying the fee we hurried to the gate and were told that the Buenos Aires flight was over-booked and we probably weren’t going to make it onto the plane.  @##@@#@ , at this point, after well over 24 hours of traveling and one major setback, I was bummed and frustrated to hear this, but just before the gate closed we got called into 2 seats next to each other, apparently because some other couple had missed a connection and weren’t going to make the flight.  And just like that we were off to start our adventure in Buenos Aires!

 

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Saying Goodbye!

Saying goodbye to friends and colleagues doesn’t have to be a sad affair and probably the best way to ensure that saying goodbye is in fact a fun affair is to organize goodbye celebrations.  This is exactly what Donna and I did during our last two weeks living full time in San Francisco, thanks to a little planning on our part but more importantly to the amazing love and efforts our friends bestowed on us.

The first celebration was thanks to Donna’s friend and colleague Dan Landers.  Dan is from Brazil and he invited us over to his apartment for a going away meal.  He made for Donna and myself some churrascaria style steaks and taught us how to make chimmichurri dipping sauce for the meat.  In classic Dan style he also whipped up for us Donna’s favorite Brazilian drink called the cairpirinhai, which is a sweet drink made from sugarcane rum, lime and sugar.  In addition to the excellent food we had an amazing bottle of wine to drink thanks to Kayvan Malek, a colleague of mine at Blackrock who runs our group’s commodities team.  A few months back Kayvan gave me a Cabernet from 1991 and on this evening the perfectly aged wine paired most excellently with Dan’s steaks.  It was a meal I won’t soon forget!

Dan Landers made a fine churrascaria steak dinner and we drank a '91 Cabernet thanks to Kayvan Malek

Dan Landers made a fine churrascaria steak dinner and we drank a ’91 Cabernet thanks to Kayvan Malek

On the day before our last day at Blackrock, Donna and I’s respective teams joined forces to sponsor a tandem going away drinks celebration.  Many thanks to Paul Harrison and Brian Feurtado for approving this awesome use of company funds; yes the team-building and camaraderie was worth it!  We rented out a private area at Local Edition, a spot with excellent mixed drinks and a speakeasy style atmosphere.  The turnout was awesome and it was fantastic to see everyone come out to enjoy each other’s company.  For a few of us the night kept going with a dinner at Hakkasan followed by a bottle of champagne at Phil Hodge’s house.  What a great evening, thanks everyone!

The most wild of the celebrations was organized by none other than Donna’s amazing roommate Natalie Ragan.  She rented out the back area of Rosewood, a bar that straddles the border between Chinatown and North Beach on Broadway street.  Our group had control of the jukebox, a bar complete with customized drinks, a projected stream of photos collected over the years, and enough space for about 100 of our San Francisco friends to get wild together!  Appropriately, the amazing night ended with cheap Chinese food next door after we were booted out at 2am.  Good times and much love to all who showed up!

I also have to throw a shout out to Dave Piazza, my former jefe at Blackrock, who organized a more personal gathering for myself and a few others at his place in Lower Haight.  His backyard is awesome and we enjoyed fresh abalone (fished out of the water and prepared by me!) and a lot of other delicious dishes prepared by Stephanie Lee.  Thanks everyone!

There is a reason why this backyard has been prominently featured in a local blog called "Backyards of the Lower Haight"

There is a reason why this backyard has been prominently featured in a local blog called “Backyards of the Lower Haight”

The following week was one of the busiest of my life.  My last day at Blackrock was July 18 and our departure to South America was to happen on July 29, which means I had about 10 days to 1) finish repowering my sailboat, Joyous, with diesel motor — a project I’ve been working on for the last 8 months, 2) pack up everything I own into a storage unit and move out of my house, and 3) pack clothes and snow gear for our trip to South America.  It was a whirlwind indeed, but by Thursday July 24, Jonah Lane, Chris Coleman and I were motoring around the SF Bay and Joyous was BACK.  Although I am not going to immediately enjoy the fruits of the long, laborious journey that was this project, I am eager to do some sailing when I get back to SF in mid-September.

Just in time for me to leave to South America we finished the diesel repower for Joyous; but I will enjoy sailing her when I am back!

Just in time for me to leave to South America we finished the diesel repower for Joyous; but I will enjoy sailing her when I am back!

Meanwhile, as I was feverishly finishing up the work on Joyous, Donna made a short trip back to New York to visit with her parents and sister, Arlana, to say goodbye. They were able to squeeze in a fun family excursion to canoe down the Delaware Water Gap, re-living a family tradition since they were young kids. The water was warm and tranquil (aside from the occasional rapids) and was a very nice getaway with family before traveling down to Argentina.

Family Canoe Pic!

Family Canoe Pic!

By Monday, July 29, Donna and I had gotten all of our worldly possessions stuffed into a 6x6x8 foot Uhaul storage unit.  We didn’t pack up any furniture as our respective households were happy to take beds, TVs and desks off our hands.  I am actually glad not to have had to sell my stuff and to know that it is getting good use at the Great Highway Beach House.  By that evening we said our final goodbyes and the next afternoon we took off for Houston and the beginning of our adventure!

Categories: San Francisco | Tags: , , | 1 Comment

Backcountry Skiing Iceland

The Radical Sabbatical unofficially kicked off in April 2014 when we visited the West Fjords of Iceland for a week-long backcountry tour of Hornstrandir with good friends. We were fortunate to have a friend of Brandon’s, Einar Svensson, hook us up with Borea Adventures to build out the week of exploring and pushing beyond our physical (and emotional in my case at least) limits! In the end, we all had an amazing time in Iceland.

Check out this 64 second clip of our trip!

Categories: Iceland | Tags: , , | 3 Comments

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